First unlock the wheel nuts and lift the front of the car, secure with a proper stand. Then remove the wheels and unscrew the screws holding the disc. Some cars do not, especially those with threaded rods instead of holes for wheel nuts. These screws can be seized, in this case, I advise first to use a small torch to heat them, then use the screwdriver to hit it, and as a last resort, drill, clean the tapped hole!
Unscrew the caliper fixing screws on the hub. Remove the caliper. The pads can prevent the caliper from coming out, but there is normally no need to force it. Install the bracket so that the brake hose is not taut or twisted. It can be attached to the suspension springs with wire, here it is placed on the triangle, the bar (red) on the jack is preventing it from falling.
Remove the disc
Clean everything, and put the new disc in place. Replace the 2 screws securing the disc. (Personally, I cover the grease thread, to prevent seizing). Replace the bracket and tighten the 2 fixing screws, after having coated them with “strong” thread brake (avoids loosening due to vibrations). Old plates are thrown in the trash because new discs involve new plates.
It is time to wipe off the discs and the oil that covers them, to use a bit of sandpaper on them, and to clean them with any necessary chemicals.
Rest your car on its wheels.
What To know before starting
Abstain for a period of (4-500 km) without severe braking: you could damage discs and pads.
Tools to use
-Ratchet or similar (allow to lengthen the handle: some screws are very tight).
-Sockets of 13,17, mm + extensions (to be adapted according to the vehicle of course)
-17 mm flat key
-Screwdriver (Phillips or Torx for the screws holding the disc). Possibly plan the small torch or the screwdriver to strike. According to the assembly of the plates: hammer + pinch.
Man I wish I knew how to change the brakes on a Chevy Silverado before I tried. It was so hard it took like a week because I didn’t have a guide like this.